FJR Adventures
After a 37-year break, I return to 2-wheeled adventures on a 2021 Yamaha FJR1300ES.
Wednesday, September 9, 2026
2026 PNW Trip 2 - Day 3
2026 PNW Trip 2 - Day 2
September 8, 2026
It rained a bit overnight but I slept through most of it, sleeping better than I have in a while. A day’s riding helps.
I woke up about 6am and read until 7 when I started the morning routine. First i did a walk around the campground loop and saw there was now another camper, in a car, a few sites from the RV. They came in late.
For breakfast, I added hot water to what I had for dinner last night, mushroom fettucini, and a cup of cocoa. Then it was gathering up the gear, patching away the tent, and the other tasks related to getting on the road.
I took my time. Before going I download a few video files from my dash cam that I will go back and insert on the blog later. It’s complicated editing them and posting just using my iPad tethered to my phone.
I did another walk around the loop and talked to the guy who does maintenance at all the sites was in the marines and now bounces between this and a firefighter, the wildfire type. I had him explain what the train was for that and it sounds interesting but quite physical. No, I am not planning on signing up.
A couple photos from this morning before I left.
I was on the road by 10am and it was gorgeous out, about 60 degrees and no wind. I really enjoy having twisty roads for breakfast.
I don’t have any details to add as I headed for my first stop in Kamiah. Just outside of town I stopped at the Nez Perce national monument, the founding location of the tribe.
I got gas at my usual spot in Kamiah, the Sinclair station that has the annoying ads blasting from the dispenser. I got gas at someplace else but I like their tables alongside the store. I parked there and shed some layers, changed my clothes.and checked messages on my phone.
I buzzed along the Clearwater River, keeping my eye on the odometer. When it changed to 59,000 miles, there was nowhere to pull off so it added a mile by the time I could grab a photo.
That’s a lot of miles since April of 2021.
The next stop was Pomeroy, WA for gas.
This is my usual stop for lunch too. They have a nice city park with tables under a shelter so I ate an apple and a bread roll while I posted yesterday’s blog entry.
When I got back on the road I set the navigation software to tonight’s campground, Sawmill Flats, and told it to take the quickest route. On I went on Hwy 12 and when I got close to Lyon Ferry Bridge, it turned me south instead of north. I had never gone this way and it was pretty cool. It climbed a bit.
Then it was 20 miles across wheat fields and past grain elevators, like this one.
Eventually I got on the freeway, I-82, and rode that to Yakima where I gassed up before heading the 40 miles to the campground. The freeway was a bore but I had to stay on top of my game dealing with passing and being passed.m
When I arrived at the campground I did the loop and saw the it was completely unoccupied. Many sites had “Reserved” noticed but they were all for later in the week. I looked the place over and selected the best site, for me, and it’s the same one I stayed in a few years ago, SIte #17. It’s big, a little bit of a walk-in, but right on the river.
It’s dark now and so I’ll heat up some dinner, Mac and Cheese, and then settle down for a bit of reading.
It was a 411 mile day.
Tuesday, September 8, 2026
2026 PNW Trip 2 - Day 1
September 7, 2026
It’s time for my second trip to the Pacific Northwest before winter sneaks in and makes travel by motorcycle challenging, not to mention dangerous. I was looking at my calendar and trying to find a 9 or 10-day window where I had nothing planned and today was the start of that window.
Last Saturday I was committed to run the annual Red Lodge Fun Run, did the 10K, and took a first in my age group with 1 hour and 5 minutes. The next day, Sunday, was a mix of chores and packing. The window closes on September 17 when I need to be at the Yellowstone Art Museum for an artist talk. My wife and I are financial sponsors of the exhibition and I really do want to meet the artist, Star Wallowing Bull.
With that window, I laid out a plan that is a bit different from my usual trip to see my mom and my sister in Sequim, WA. It’s usually 3 days to get there, 3 days there, and 3 days to get back. But this time I have a side trip planned.
I get there Wednesday afternoon in time to have dinner with my mom. Then I leave Thursday morning, ride to Port Angeles, take the ferry to Victoria, BC, and camp in Bamberton Provincial Park. On Friday, I get up early, ride north to pick up the Pacific Marine Road, a former logging road that is now chip sealed, and take that to the coast at Port Renfrew. From there I ride down the coast and back to Victoria where I take the ferry back to Port Angeles.
I’ll spend the weekend with my mom and the ride back Monday, getting back home on Wednesday. That is the plan. Let’s see how it goes.
Before I left this morning we did a few chores around our house, and the other house, cleaning up after last night’s storm. No damage, just clean up. I pretty much had the bike packed last night and only had to finish up a few things and get it loaded this morning. I checked the air in the tires, put on the gear, said our goodbyes, and pulled out right at 10am.
I went north to Broadview and then Lavina where I turned west and rode Hwy 12, which I stayed on all day. The weather was very nice BUT before Ryegate I saw dark clouds up ahead. Uh-oh.
Before I got to Shawmut I pulled over and put on my rain pants. My rain liner was already in the mesh jacket I was wearing. As I was pulling on the pants, the winds kicked up. Seriously. I was assessing the situation when a guy in a truck, heading back the way I came, pulled over and yelled “You don’t want to go that way. Strong winds, rain, and hail. I suggest heading back to Ryegate looking for shelter.”
So that’s what I did. It was only 6 miles or so to go back and I knew that they had tables and a shelter in their small city park. When I got there I got the bike parked, grabbed my tank bag, and retreated to the shelter just as the winds came up followed by some heavy rain, thunder, and lightning. Luckily no hail.
I had cell service so I pulled up the weather map’s radar and watched it move over me. It looks like the most severe part was north of me and I was in a little gap with a smaller cell over me. I saw that it was clear to the west so I waited it out, staying dry under the shelter.
As an aside, a pickup pulled up and parked nearby. A guy, about 40, and a small boy, about 5, got out and used the Porta-potty. Then they got back in his truck and just sat. I thought he might be waiting out the storm to pass like I was but in a bit, a fancy Dodge Charger pulled up. A woman, about 40 with dyed short black hair got out. The guy and the kid got out carrying bags and belongings. They exchanged a few words as the kid and his stuff were loaded into her car. They talked for a moment or two, cordially, but just that. Then they went their separate ways. So dad got the kid for the holiday weekend.
After that bit of drama, I loaded back up and headed west. The storm went east and took the rain with it but left a strong wind out of the west, something I dealt with for most of the rest of the day.
I passed through Harlowton and rode on to White Sulphur Spring. The wind was a constant annoyance. Speaking of annoyance, I pulled in to the Town Pump at White Sulphur and every spot in the 6 islands was taken. And there was no one in ANY of the vehicles. They gas up and then go shopping in the store. There are plenty of spots to move the vehicle to but, no, that would be too much effort.
After gassing up I continued on Hwy 12 which travels south, with a heavy cross wind, until it turns west and does the climb to MacDonald Pass. This is usually a pleasant ride but the wind takes the fun out of it.
In Townsend I headed north and rode to Helena. I was getting hungry and decided to have my lunch in front of the capitol building. The dome is having some work done on it.
My lunch was an apple and a roll. The apple was an apple but the roll was fantastic. I baked them yesterday and it’s a blend of white and whole wheat flour with ground flax and finely chopped walnuts. Yum, yum, yum.
At this point I had to decide if I was going to stay on the 2-lane road or stay on Hwy 12 which would share with I-90 from Garrison to Missoula. Since the latter would shave off about 30-minutes, and I had that rain delay, the slab it will be.
I still dealt with lots of wind but it seemed more of a steady headwind instead of the crosswinds that are so much work.
I should mention that there isn’t much traffic but what there is consists of about 50% RVs, coming home from the holiday weekend.
Navigating through Missoula was great as there was none of the usual traffic. When I got to Lolo I stopped for gas and to pick up a beer for dinner. The wind has calmed down and clouds are blocking the sun. I should mention that I did don my sweatshirt and heavier gloves back in Ryegate. The air temperature jumps between 55 and 60. It’s a bit chilly and I did turn on my grip heaters.
The ride on Hwy 12 to Lolo pass was great: 60 mph and sweeping curves. I stopped at the pass for a couple photos.
Now it was about getting to the campground but also enjoying the ride. I stopped at a historic spot for a some photos.
I pulled into the Jerry Johnson campground at 7:15pm, Montana time, 6:15 in Idaho time. That’s a 9 hour and 15 minutes ride, about what I usually do on this route.
I looped the campground and there is only one other camper here, oh, “glamper,” an RV down by the entrance. I took site #8. I’ve stayed in 6 and 7 and this time I wanted to try #8 and it’s pretty nice. Most of the site here have very little space for a tent and are more set up for an RV, even though there is no water of electricity.
I got the tent set up and sat down to write this as it got dark. Now to boil up some dinner.
It was a 436 mile day.
Thursday, September 3, 2026
Medicine Lodge - Day 2
I didn’t sleep as well as I usually do in that I woke up about every hour and had to readjust my position. The air mattress I use is fine but for some reason I just wasn’t that comfortable. The temperature was fine overnight, not even what I would describe chilly, just cool.
I woke up for good about 5:30am, my usual time, and read on my Kindle for a bit. At 6 am there was a bit of rain, just a sprinkle, from a passing cloud. I got dressed and by 6:20 I was out for my morning hike.
This is the way I like to start the day when camping, getting out and moving. I suppose it’s the same at home since I get up and hit the gym or go out for a long run on most days.
I went back to the Bear Trail and repeated the hike I had done yesterday but when I got to where I turned around before, I kept going. I hiked uphill for about 25 more minutes and got to a point where I could see that it continued on up for quite a ways. I hadn’t brought water so I decided it was a good time to turn around and head back down. By the time I got back I’d been out for 90 minutes. Here’s some photos from along the hike.
Now it was morning routine time. I heated water for my oatmeal breakfast and some cocoa. While that was happening I started getting my gear out of the tent and repacked. I want to be back home by 3pm so I need to be on the road by 11. No problem.
While I was finishing my cocoa I walked to the end of the campground loop to check out the swimming hole.
I was on the road about 9:45 and it was great out. 70 degrees and a nice 2-lane road. I cruised to Basin, WY where I pulled over to get a photo of my motorcycle in front of a county court house. I have quite the collection of these.
I was buzzing along the highway and missed my turn on 310 north to Lovell and was heading toward Cody. I know that wasn’t right so I pulled over to turn around. It was under a quarter mile back to the turnoff. I shot a photo of the cattle yard.
Now it was just logging the miles. I stopped for gas in Lovell and then rode all the way to Billings without incident. I topped off the tank before I got home so it will be mostly ready to go again except that it’s due for an oil change, which I plan to do tomorrow but today it got a wash.
It was a 175 mile day.
2026 PNW Trip 2 - Day 3
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