2026 PNW Trip 2 - Day 1

September 7, 2026

It’s time for my second trip to the Pacific Northwest before winter sneaks in and makes travel by motorcycle challenging, not to mention dangerous.  I was looking at my calendar and trying to find a 9 or 10-day window where I had nothing planned and today was the start of that window.

Last Saturday I was committed to run the annual Red Lodge Fun Run, did the 10K, and took a first in my age group with 1 hour and 5 minutes.  The next day, Sunday, was a mix of chores and packing.  The window closes on September 17 when I need to be at the Yellowstone Art Museum for an artist talk.  My wife and I are financial sponsors of the exhibition and I really do want to meet the artist, Star Wallowing Bull.

With that window, I laid out a plan that is a bit different from my usual trip to see my mom and my sister in Sequim, WA.  It’s usually 3 days to get there, 3 days there, and 3 days to get back.  But this time I have a side trip planned.  

I get there Wednesday afternoon in time to have dinner with my mom.  Then I leave Thursday morning, ride to Port Angeles, take the ferry to Victoria, BC, and camp in Bamberton Provincial Park.  On Friday, I get up early, ride north to pick up the Pacific Marine Road, a former logging road that is now chip sealed, and take that to the coast at Port Renfrew.  From there I ride down the coast and back to Victoria where I take the ferry back to Port Angeles.

I’ll spend the weekend with my mom and the ride back Monday, getting back home on Wednesday.  That is the plan.  Let’s see how it goes.

Before I left this morning we did a few chores around our house, and the other house, cleaning up after last night’s storm.  No damage, just clean up.  I pretty much had the bike packed last night and only had to finish up a few things and get it loaded this morning.  I checked the air in the tires, put on the gear, said our goodbyes, and pulled out right at 10am.

I went north to Broadview and then Lavina where I turned west and rode Hwy 12, which I stayed on all day.  The weather was very nice BUT before Ryegate I saw dark clouds up ahead.  Uh-oh.

Before I got to Shawmut I pulled over and put on my rain pants.  My rain liner was already in the mesh jacket I was wearing.  As I was pulling on the pants, the winds kicked up.  Seriously.  I was assessing the situation when a guy in a truck, heading back the way I came, pulled over and yelled “You don’t want to go that way.  Strong winds, rain, and hail.  I suggest heading back to Ryegate looking for shelter.”

So that’s what I did.  It was only 6 miles or so to go back and I knew that they had tables and a shelter in their small city park.  When I got there I got the bike parked, grabbed my tank bag, and retreated to the shelter just as the winds came up followed by some heavy rain, thunder, and lightning.  Luckily no hail.

I had cell service so I pulled up the weather map’s radar and watched it move over me.  It looks like the most severe part was north of me and I was in a little gap with a smaller cell over me.  I saw that it was clear to the west so I waited it out, staying dry under the shelter.

As an aside, a pickup pulled up and parked nearby.  A guy, about 40, and a small boy, about 5, got out and used the Porta-potty.  Then they got back in his truck and just sat.  I thought he might be waiting out the storm to pass like I was but in a bit, a fancy Dodge Charger pulled up.  A woman, about 40 with dyed short black hair got out.  The guy and the kid got out carrying bags and belongings.  They exchanged a few words as the kid and his stuff were loaded into her car.  They talked for a moment or two, cordially, but just that.  Then they went their separate ways.    So dad got the kid for the holiday weekend.

After that bit of drama, I loaded back up and headed west.  The storm went east and took the rain with it but left a strong wind out of the west, something I dealt with for most of the rest of the day.

I passed through Harlowton and rode on to White Sulphur Spring.  The wind was a constant annoyance.  Speaking of annoyance, I pulled in to the Town Pump at White Sulphur and every spot in the 6 islands was taken.  And there was no one in ANY of the vehicles.  They gas up and then go shopping in the store.  There are plenty of spots to move the vehicle to but, no, that would be too much effort.

After gassing up I continued on Hwy 12 which travels south, with a heavy cross wind, until it turns west and does the climb to MacDonald Pass.  This is usually a pleasant ride but the wind takes the fun out of it.  

In Townsend I headed north and rode to Helena.  I was getting hungry and decided to have my lunch in front of the capitol building.  The dome is having some work done on it.

My lunch was an apple and a roll.  The apple was an apple but the roll was fantastic.  I baked them yesterday and it’s a blend of white and whole wheat flour with ground flax and finely chopped walnuts.  Yum, yum, yum.

At this point I had to decide if I was going to stay on the 2-lane road or stay on Hwy 12 which would share with I-90 from Garrison to Missoula.  Since the latter would shave off about 30-minutes, and I had that rain delay, the slab it will be.

I still dealt with lots of wind but it seemed more of a steady headwind instead of the crosswinds that are so much work.  

I should mention that there isn’t much traffic but what there is consists of about 50% RVs, coming home from the holiday weekend.

Navigating through Missoula was great as there was none of the usual traffic.  When I got to Lolo I stopped for gas and to pick up a beer for dinner.  The wind has calmed down and clouds are blocking the sun.  I should mention that I did don my sweatshirt and heavier gloves back in Ryegate.  The air temperature jumps between 55 and 60.    It’s a bit chilly and I did turn on my grip heaters.

The ride on Hwy 12 to Lolo pass was great: 60 mph and sweeping curves.  I stopped at the pass for a couple photos.

Now it was about getting to the campground but also enjoying the ride.  I stopped at a historic spot for a some photos.

I pulled into the Jerry Johnson campground at 7:15pm, Montana time, 6:15 in Idaho time.  That’s a 9 hour and 15 minutes ride, about what I usually do on this route.

I looped the campground and there is only one other camper here, oh, “glamper,” an RV down by the entrance.  I took site #8.  I’ve stayed in 6 and 7 and this time I wanted to try #8 and it’s pretty nice.  Most of the site here have very little space for a tent and are more set up for an RV, even though there is no water of electricity.  

I got the tent set up and sat down to write this as it got dark.  Now to boil up some dinner.

It was a 436 mile day.

Medicine Lodge - Day 2

September 3, 2026

I didn’t sleep as well as I usually do in that I woke up about every hour and had to readjust my position.  The air mattress I use is fine but for some reason I just wasn’t that comfortable.  The temperature was fine overnight, not even what I would describe chilly, just cool.

I woke up for good about 5:30am, my usual time, and read on my Kindle for a bit.  At 6 am there was a bit of rain, just a sprinkle, from a passing cloud.  I got dressed and by 6:20 I was out for my morning hike.

This is the way I like to start the day when camping, getting out and moving.  I suppose it’s the same at home since I get up and hit the gym or go out for a long run on most days.  

I went back to the Bear Trail and repeated the hike I had done yesterday but when I got to where I turned around before, I kept going.  I hiked uphill for about 25 more minutes and got to a point where I could see that it continued on up for quite a ways.  I hadn’t brought water so I decided it was a good time to turn around and head back down.  By the time I got back I’d been out for 90 minutes.  Here’s some photos from along the hike.

Now it was morning routine time.  I heated water for my oatmeal breakfast and some cocoa.  While that was happening I started getting my gear out of the tent and repacked.  I want to be back home by 3pm so I need to be on the road by 11.  No problem.

While I was finishing my cocoa I walked to the end of the campground loop to check out the swimming hole.

I was on the road about 9:45 and it was great out.  70 degrees and a nice 2-lane road.  I cruised to Basin, WY where I pulled over to get a photo of my motorcycle in front of a county court house.  I have quite the collection of these.

I was buzzing along the highway and missed my turn on 310 north to Lovell and was heading toward Cody.  I know that wasn’t right so I pulled over to turn around.  It was under a quarter mile back to the turnoff.  I shot a photo of the cattle yard.

Now it was just logging the miles.  I stopped for gas in Lovell and then rode all the way to Billings without incident.  I topped off the tank before I got home so it will be mostly ready to go again except that it’s due for an oil change, which I plan to do tomorrow but today it got a wash.

It was a 175 mile day.

Medicine Lodge - Day 1

September 2, 2026 

I’ve been busy with all sorts of little projects, some at the house we are trying to sell and some in our home.  At the other house we removed the carpet on the front porch and the west side entry at the breezeway.  It was the outdoor type of carpet and was glued down so some effort was involved getting it pulled up.  

I had bought some new carpet in a 12-foot width and after some measuring, twice, I cut the new pieces, applied the adhesive, and down the new carpet went.  (It was actually more effort than that). I think they turned out well.

I had enough material leftover to re-carpet the rear entryway in our house and the stairs to the basement.  I had just enough to finish that job.

With that job behind me and nothing on the calendar until late-Thursday afternoon, I decided to head to Wyoming on this overnighter to check out Medicine Lodge Archaeological Site.  A friend had told me about it a few weeks ago and talked about all the petroglyphs and pictographs that are on a sandstone wall there.  My usual Wyoming getaway, Five Springs, is great but I was up for something new.

I went on the Wyoming state parks web site and made a reservation. There are quite few sites available for Wednesday night but Thursday through the Labor Day weekend looks to be solidly booked.  I selected a site on the first loop which is where the paved road ends.  I don’t really know one site from the other but the photo of Site #8 looked good and was set up for a tent.  I paid the fee, about $28, and knew that I wouldn’t have to chance not getting one.

I went to the gym at my usual time, just before 7am, running the mile there and did my usual round of weights and floor exercises and then swam 500 yards.  It’s always a good way to start the day.

After breakfast I took my time rounding up my gear and getting it packed.  I am pretty much bringing the usual load but less food and clothes since it’s only one night out.

I had the bike loaded by 11:30 and was on the road at 11:45.  The weather is warm and supposed to be hotter so I am just in my jeans with my mesh jacket over a short-sleeve shirt.  I had Google Maps route me out of town and it took me down Shilo through all the roundabouts, over the freeway and looped back to the Frontage Road, before heading down Duck Creek and River Road to Laurel.  I usually do the Buffalo Trail route on the way out of town and the River Road/Shilo on the way back (for no reason) so this changed my rut.

There is not much to say about the ride there.  There was a pretty strong headwind until I left Bridger and headed to Lovell but every one in a while I’d get a blast.  There was very little traffic.  In the entire ride I was never passed a single time.

I stopped in Frannie for a photo opportunity.

In Lovell I stopped for gas.  There were a half dozen motorcycles tanking up, mostly Harleys, and I chatted with one of them.  They are all from Philadelphia, PA and headed to the Beartooths and Yellowstone Park.  No, they didn’t ride all the way.  They trailered their bikes to Rapid City, SD and rode from there.  I didn’t ask but I assume they did Sturgis although it should be over by now.

I rode to Greybull and then through Basin, two small towns in Wyoming.  That portion of the ride isn’t very scenic and just has to be done.  South of Basin I turned and saw that I had 27 miles to go.  Along the way I saw a nice rock formation and pulled over.

I found the campground and my site with no trouble.  The site is nice.  Plenty of room and right next to the small river so I have that for my white noise.  

There is only one other occupied site in the loop of 9, a motor home, so it looks to be quiet.  They have electricity in some sites so I shouldn’t be putting up with the noise pollution of a generator.

I got changed into shorts and went to see the archeological site.  It was maybe a bit over a half mile to the site.  Some views along the way.

I stopped and went in a small cabin that had exhibits explaining some of the history of the people who have lived here over the past 10,000 years.  I hiked to the wall with the rock art and picked up a handout that explained some of what is known about each of the 10 areas they have marked.  As is expected, some of the images ate are hard to make out but with the guide most of them were easy to discern.

I continued up the trail and visited two more cabins, one about the habitat and the animals it supports and one about elk.  

Then I looped to the end of the trail to see Shiprock.

I took the nature trail most of the way back and saw a side trail, Bear Trail, that I want to come back a check out later.

It was pretty hot when I got back to my site and saw right away the downside of Site #8: it’s in the full sun.  There are trees but for a bit in the afternoon, it the sun.  If I camp here again I would do Site #9.  

I did scout around the loop and looked at the others sites, specifically ones with electric in case we would like to come here with the Tesla.  It’s about 170 miles to get here and the car could easily do that.  I took a photo of the electric box and it appears to have the correct outlets to get a charge overnight.

I took a break, blew up my air mattress and read on my Kindle for a while.  Then it was time to write this.  There is no cell service so I’m writing off line and will put it all together when I returned to home.

As I was sitting here, another RV pulled in.  It parked across the loop from me, eventually.  It is a pickup with a cab-over camper and is pulling a trailer.  It took them at least 10-minutes to get backed into their spot.  Then it was all the leveling that had to be done.  From the time they pulled in to when they shut their engine off was about 20 minutes.  Then the rest of the set up took place.  It seems like lots of work but I get it, it’s a hobby and they, actually he, is involved in the process so that is a good thing.  They are in an electric spot so no generator racket.

It’s time for dinner and Butternut Dal Bhat (red lentils, chickpeas, rice, butternut squash in a curry) is on the menu with an Irish Death beer from a brewery in Ellensburg, WA.  Yum.  Note the entree is from Peak and quite good.

After dinner was settled, I went out for a hike.  I’d passed a sign for “Bear Trail” and wanted to check it out.  It goes up and bit and runs parallel to the property for 3/4 miles or so.  There is a bit of a climb at first but then opens onto the sagebrush and juniper country and the view is pretty nice.  I decided to hike up further, off the trail, and to see the Shiprock form the back side.  I just followed a sort of path and headed up until I got to a small summit.  The view was great and I did see Shiprock from the other side.

The hike back down was nice as it was getting cooler out as the sun had dropped behind the bluffs to the west.  It was the end of the day and time to hunker down in the tent and read for a bit.

It was a 173 mile day.