FJR Adventures
After a 37-year break, I return to 2-wheeled adventures on a 2021 Yamaha FJR1300ES.
Sunday, June 29, 2025
2025 Eastbound Trip 1 - The Wrap Up
Saturday, June 28, 2025
2025 Eastbound Trip 1 - Day 30
2025 Eastbound Trip 1 - Day 29
I covered some miles today. No touristing, just riding. And since over 90% of it was in North Dakota it was long, straight roads.
We got up at our usual early and had breakfast.
We hit the road at 9 and I mapped at a route from where we were camped, Buffalo River State Park in Minnesota, to Buffalo Gap Campground near Medora, North Dakota. Almost all 2-lanes in parts of North Dakota I had not yesterday visited.
The weather was fine, cloudy, dry, and in the 60s so I just had a sweatshirt over my t-shirt under my jacket that still had the rain liner to act a windbreaker. The jacket and gloves had dried out overnight but my Levis were still wet so I switched to my armored riding pants since they were dry.
The ride took me north and the west. Here’s a photo of what I looked at most of the morning.
A bit down the road I saw a crop duster at work and stopped to watch and to shoot some photos and video.
I hit a construction area and rode 7 miles on gravel. Not fun.
I was running low on gas and found the village of Hope to solve that problem.
Now it was just more riding. I set the cruise control to 66. On my dash it shows 66 and next to that the gear I am in: 6. I get 666 across my dash. I’d say that’s some good luck if I believed in such nonsense.
I stopped in McClusky for a map check and shot this photo.
On I rode. In the helmet speakers I was streaming music by the Scottish band, Camera Obscura, and it really helped in eating up the miles. Their lead singer/songwriter, Tracyanne Campbell is great and some of their songs are real keepers like “New Year’s Resolution” and “Williams’s Heart.” Just brilliant. After a bit of that I told Siri to play WESA (Pittsburgh) and listened to the news. Quite depressing. So I asked Siri to play AL Stewart, another genius, and also Scottish, singer/songwriter.
In Washburn I stopped for gas but the dispenser would only let me pump premium and wouldn’t let me cancel so I took 2 gallons and figured I’d top up with my 87 regular down the road. It was time for a lunch break so I rode down to their Riverfront Park which is right on the Missouri River.
I shed some laters as the temperature was quickly rising and got back on the road. I stopped in Beulah and topped up my tank. The navigator app kept telling me it found a shorter route but I knew that I wanted to stay on ND 200 and get to 85 south. Near Halliday I stopped for a map check and a couple photos.
Now I rode to Belfield, got gas, and did a map check. I saw that the car was already at the campground. The map showed that the 2-lane road from here has 7 miles unpaved. No thanks. I hopped on the freeway for the final 24 miles.
I found our camp spot, that same one we were in a few weeks ago on our way out eastbound. I got the bike unloaded and the first order of business was to get on a t-shirt, shorts, and flip-flops. It was warm. The next item of business was to consume a beer or two. One advantage of traveling with a car is that I can keep the cooler in the car stocked with beer instead of finding a place that sells it near the day’s final stop. Every state has different liquor laws so one never knows where to buy a single beer.
It was a 447 mile day.
Thursday, June 26, 2025
2025 Eastbound Trip 1 - Day 28
Another day of adventure. After spending an unplanned night in a motel, I am happy to report that the tornado did not materialize in Albert Lea but we did get some massive rain storms. When I got up at 5am the rain had left behind a dense fog and I could barely see across the adjacent highway. The weather app indicated more rain between 7 and 8am, heavy at times, so I took my time getting the day together.
About 7:30 I packed and started loading the bike. Whatever rain had thought about showing up had changed its mine so it was time to hit the road. Rather than travel northwest toward the campground I’d stay in tonight, I headed south on I-35 for a bit more dark touristing. While back in Pittsburgh I’d gone to Andy Warhol’s grave and visited a few cemeteries, I don’t really consider myself a “dark tourist” but when I saw how close I was to Clear Lake, Iowa, I just had to go.
The weather was actually pretty nice and I enjoyed hitting the freeway speeds first thing in the morning. The navigator app gave me some wrong information and I ignored its command to exit the freeway and continued on to the next ramp, county road 300. I rode it for a half mile and then did 3/4 of gravel roads. I generally do not like being off pavement but these weren’t too bad.
I arrived at my destination, the parking lot from where I would hike to site of the plane crash that killed Buddy Holly, Ritchie Valens, the Big Bopper, and their pilot in 1959.
There is a memorial at the start of the trail
The hike is about 1/2 mile through an easement that the property owner has granted.
The memorial at the site is quite nice.
I hiked back and then rode the 5 miles to the Surf Ballroom in Clear Lake, where Buddy had played his last show the evening before the crash.
That was it for my tourist excursion this morning and well worth the effort. Now to head to the campground which is somewhere north, east of Fargo, ND. I charted a route all on backroads that the app said would take me about 7 hours. Before leaving I got gas at a station on Buddy Holly Place. I saw two other nearby streets named of Valens and the Bopper.
I stopped for a break in Emmons, MN. When I looked at the map I saw that I was on the state line so I walked back and took of photo of the bike while I was standing in Iowa and it was in Minnesota .
And a photo of the town.
I stopped in Alden, MN because the clouds up ahead told me I would be needing my rain gear. It has a pond in the middle of town.
Just down the road I pulled over for an another milestone on the odometer.
Here’s what’s up ahead.
And then I hit the rain. Lots of rain. I rode in a steady, sometimes heavy, downpour for the next 1-1/2 hours. While not a preferred riding condition, this bike is just excellent. I cruise along at or slightly about the speed limit and it feels just like it does if the weather was clear and dry. The only times I slowed down was when it got really heavy and visibility was an issue.
After a bit the rain would let up and then the temperature dropped. It was about 60° and with the wind I’d generate riding, I started getting cold. I was mostly dry but my jacket gets wet (the liner inside keeps me dry) but then it acts like an evaporative cooling system. The PinLock thing in my visor prevents it from fogging up. But, of course, my gloves are soaked. I countered that by turning my grip heaters up all the way.
Here’s radar map of what I am riding through.
Somewhere along the way, when the rain had let up, I pulled over and dug a couple extra t-shirts out of my bag and put them on to help warm me up a bit. That really did help. Here’s a couple photos from that stop.
I stopped for a break, and lunch, in Hutchinson. 4 years ago when I rode cross country to Pittsburgh, I’d camped here overnight. I passed Hwy 212 just south of town, the road I took from Billings to here back then. The lunch break help warm me up.
I stopped for gas in Hoffman, MN and it was raining again. It’s just the way it’s going to be today. I went through Fergus Falls, a very nice place, and stopped for a map check.
It wasn’t far to the campground from here. I stopped for another photo along the way.
I’d left the rain behind and arrived at the campsite just in time as my wife had already set up the big tent. We hadn’t seen each other since yesterday morning so we caught up on our adventures while we had salads and chips and dip for dinner. I’d made hot cocoa to warm me up and it worked. I had a nice IPA for afters while I wrote this.
It was a 408 mile day.
2025 Eastbound Trip 1 - Table of Contents
Coming Soon…
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May 20, 2025 Leading up to this excursion I did quite a bit of prep work on the motorcycle. I replaced the tires with another set of Mich...
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June 9, 2024 Hwy 212, the Beartooth Highway, has had an open/closed thing going on over the past couple of weeks due to late-spring snow. T...
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October 11, 2024 On September 18, 2021 I rode this loop for the first time and couldn’t believe that was the last time I did so it was defin...